Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH)

Today we are leaving Dubrovnik with beautiful pictures, great memories, and very sore calves. It was absolutely a great day to leave. On our way out at only 9am there was a solid stream of tourists on the wall. We passed 6 cruise ships - 4 were very large. Dubrovnik is a major stop on the Mediterranean cruise circuit receiving nearly a million passengers per year; take note of cruise ship schedules and plan accordingly. The cruise season runs from March to November with the bulk of the ships docking from May to October.

Excited to visit a new country for us!

To get out of here, we had a car reservation at the Hertz office in town - quite convenient but the office has horrible reviews (ie. no car when you show up). Luck was with us. We got there just after the 8am opening and had no trouble at all. Come prepared: they charged us a €4000 deposit since we didn't buy their insurance. (For €10/day, the basic insurance would have brought the deposit down to €1500.)

If you don't already know, Greg does not like driving in foreign countries. But he loves me. After about a 1/2 mile, he let out his breath: "So far, going good." The roads are easy to drive.

Greg can adapt and drive crazy just as well as anyone else 

Fun Fact: In the 17th century, Dubrovnik was forced to sell the 12-mile patch of oceanfront to the Ottoman Empire to raise money in order to fight the advancing Venetians.

As a result, Dubrovnik is separated by two international borders from the rest of Croatia. Note: by 2022 Croatia plans to have completed the Peljesac Bridge, a 7,887 ft bridge which will bypass Bosnia completely.

That means within the distance of about 25 miles, we have to cross the border 3 times  At the first border crossing, we had to get in the "all other passports" line like at the airport, but only had to flash the passport at the agent. The short line of cars hardly took 3 minutes. A very short distance later, getting back into Croatia, took twice as long because the Croatian agents actually stamp the passports and run them through the computer.

Between Dubrovnik and Mostar, by Metkovik, the main border crossing into "Bosnia and Herzegovina" ('Bosnia' from here forward) usually has long 45 minute waits. So I researched a lonely crossing up the road - not out of the way. We were the only ones using it.  (N 43*05'43.2" E017*37'05.4" are the coordinates of a restaurant, Konoba Vrilo, near the crossing.)

I read that driving in Bosnia was somewhat of a challenge because google maps doesn't work. I didn't expect our GPS to lead us astray. I knew something was wrong when the sign said to go straight and our GPS directed us right. Whoever designed the maps did not do it in a rental.

No joke - our GPS kept rerouting us to take this road to Kravica Waterfalls

When our GPS failed us we relied on the brown signs to get us to Kravica Waterfalls

Kravica Waterfalls, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Kravica Waterfalls 

Kravica Waterfalls, often also called Kravice Waterfalls, is a natural phenomenon and rarity. Bosnia's large tufa cascade is located on the Trebižat River, in karstic Herzegovina - 25 miles south of Mostar. The falls are about 80 ft high and 500 ft across. Kravica is a popular local swimming and picnic area. The best part about the Kravica Falls is that even though they are impressive and make for a great swimming area, they don't get the crowds like Croatia's Plitvice National Park and Krka National Park.

Something to note is that the internet cannot keep up with how quickly costs are rising here and in Croatia. For example, the ticket price here has already risen from 4 km to 10 km (add in cheap parking, all paid at the entrance booth), in the past 6 months since I did my research. We paid €12 ... since Bosnia takes euros and we are only here for less than 24 hours, we are not buying Konvertibilna Markas - "km" or "marks" for short.

Without hesitation we knew we were crossing to the other side, the peaceful riverbank - by walking through the river as deep as our chests. I should've videoed Greg because he lost his balance and got a response from the crowd. "I thought I was going in."

Wading through the river to get to the better side for relaxing along the shore

Beautiful combination of tufa and cascades

The falls make people so happy that they break out into song and dance, accompanied by the accordian they conveniently have on hand. It is an interesting culture. To Greg it sounds like Bavaria. I read that there is "nothing to do here but swim, drink, and sunbathe" - but I'd add that the live music makes it an experience to be had. It is a good place to transport yourself to for a day!

Bring your accordian and you'll attract friendly, singin' Bosnian babes

Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Known for the emerald green River Neretva and the iconic Stari Most, Mostar is one of the most picturesque UNESCO-listed old towns in the world. It's beautiful: it's where east meets west, where the European Union meets the old Ottoman Empire, where church bells ring together with the minaret's call to prayer - where Christianity meets Islam. Muslim culture permeates Mostar: minarets belonging to the 10 mosques pierce the horizon and 5 times each day, loud speakers crackle to life with the call to prayer.

Stari Most

Stari Most ("Old Bridge") is a reconstruction of a 16th-century Ottoman bridge over the emerald-green Neretva River. Commissioned in 1557 by the Ottoman sultan, the gravity defying stone bridge was a technological marvel for its time – stretching nearly 100 feet, it was the longest single-span stone arch on the planet (built before the Rialto Bridge in Venice) – and strong enough to withhold the Nazi tanks of WWII. Destroyed in the 1990s conflict, the Old Bridge was rebuilt in 2004.

Mostar's Stari Most

Walking on the bridge - it is steep and slick

Beneath the Stari Most on the shores of the Neretva River

Jumping off the bridge into the icy water 80 feet below is a very old tradition – one for only the most trained and skilled divers. To watch, you will be highly encouraged by fellow divers to make a donation.

After they collect enough money, they will make the jump

Skilled divers jump 80 feet into the water below

Next to the bridge, Coppersmiths' Street offers the flavor of a Turkish bazaar this side of Istanbul - selling colorful mosaic lanterns, rugs, Persian-style painted ceramics, metal platters, coffee sets, belly dancing dresses and plenty of other touristy souvenirs.

It is fun to look around Coppersmith's Street - not your typical souvenirs

Through '93 and '94, Bosniaks dared going outside only at night, under the cloak of darkness, when Croat snipers couldn't see them.

A simple sign reminding to never forget the horrors of the Bosnian War

Bosnia is the home of ćevap — perfectly seasoned minced meat formed into little links, then grilled on an open fire. There are plenty of restaurants in Mostar that serve them, but we chose Hindin Han for its quaint stream-side balcony.

There was supposed to be 10 little sausages hiding under my pita, but they kept disappearing into Greg's mouth. Greg's dinner was delicious too - a breaded and fried veal steak rolled around cheese, prosciutto, and sour cream.

Delicious ćevapćići are hiding under the pita, next to Greg's plate of fried veal

Dinner at Hindin Han was the deal of the century: two meals including overflowing glasses of wine and tip for only $18. In Dubrovnik, that hardly covered the cost of drinks.

We thoroughly enjoyed venturing out of Croatia for a brief stop in this town!

Dubrovnik Wall - Morning or Afternoon?

Morning view over the town from the top of the walls

We started each morning in Dubrovnik the same way: having coffee at one of the many sidewalk cafes along the Stradun. Today, only our 2nd morning, I was completely surprised when the waiter remembered not only us from yesterday but our order as well. This tiny town regularly gets 10,000 visitors a day!

Enjoying our morning coffee along the Stradun

Dubrovnik Wall - Morning or Afternoon?

The 16th-century walls surrounding the Old Town of Dubrovnik remain primarily intact thanks to their impeccable construction, consistent care and the city's ability to avoid conflict over the centuries. The walls are 1.2 miles long, 20 feet thick and up to 80 feet high. And the best thing about them is that you can walk all the way around them! Walking the walls during your visit is an absolute must.

Preparing for the trip, I couldn't find an answer to the question when is the best time of day to walk the walls around Dubrovnik. Without experiencing both, I still don't know the answer to this question. We could ask Sara from Seattle, who bought tickets 3 times so she could do it 3 days in a row! Probably the best answer is: it depends.  I thought we were going to do it in the glow of the late afternoon sun, right before closing, but there was a layer of haze that fell over the city. After walking it this morning I was certain the best time to walk the wall (in September) is right when they open at 8am. In the morning right at opening, the light is fresh and crisp, and the temperatures low.

I still wouldn't rule out the end of the day as best ... that's when we went to Fort Lovrijenac. This afternoon it wasn't hazy and the view over the walls was gorgeous.

Afternoon view of Dubrovnik's Old Town from Fort Lovrijenac

The main entrance to the walls in just inside Pile Gate

Sara from Seattle had the right idea buying her ticket the day before; I wish I had that foresight or read that tip. Ten minutes before opening, the ticket line (which is separate from the entrance) was already 40 people long.

The line to buy tickets to walk the wall

Although we were by no means the first people on the wall, it wasn't much of a struggle to get pictures with no one in them. Other than a few wall scenes, most of the pictures are taken out to sea or into the town - so it doesn't matter how many people are around you. I think the best unobstructed pictures of the town, at least in the morning light, are taken from the area of Minceta Tower.

Pictures from our wall walk:

Fort Lovrijenac

One of several sentry boxes along the wall, overlooking the Adriatic

From the wall, you can see both Buza Bars clinging to the fortress rocks below.  (This is "Buza 2")

View out the window at the top of Minceta Tower

The bargain of the day was a $3 cold bottle of water that came with shaded seats along the wall overlooking the Old Town below.

After we finished the wall, we headed over to Lokrum Island ("Love" Island). Our host said it is where she spends most of her days to escape the crowds of the Old Town. (Notice how the theme of a visit to Dubrovnik is how to best escape the crowds.)

Lokrum Island is a beautiful little paradise a 15-minute boat ride from Dubrovnik. $25 buys you a round trip ticket and entrance. The only inhabitants of the island are peacocks and bunnies. You can walk the trails around the island (not well-marked), swim, see a couple sights (monastery and botanical gardens), or sunbathe. Or like us, find a bar - a $9 beer bought us some shaded, cushioned chairs for a couple of hours.

The small island of Lokrum is right off the coast of Dubrovnik

Near the dock, about to get off the boat that brings you over

The other side of the island, opposite the port

Swimming in the Adriatic - It is easy to float due to the high salt content

Continue reading if you are a GOT fan ...

As if it weren't popular enough, today's Dubrovnik has garnered even more global attention as one of the main filming backdrops for the HBO series Game of Thrones.

Greg and I began watching Game of Thrones last year with the 7th season; our boys thought we were crazy to start with the end. But a couple months ago we decided to binge-watch all 7 seasons - beginning with Season 1. It was a fun way to get excited for our trip since a large part of the HBO series is filmed in Croatia. (And next summer we'll hit more locations in Spain.)

Cersei's Walk of Shame from Season 5 Episode 10

Trying to find a way in to the House of the Undying (Minceta Tower) – where Daenerys goes in Season 2 to find her dragons.

The Qarth garden party was filmed at the Lokrum Island's monastery.

All hail His Grace, the next King of the 7 Kingdoms.

Lots of scenes were filmed at Fort Lovrijenac including the tournament thrown in honor of King Joffrey's name day.

Dubrovnik - the Pearl of the Adriatic

A jaw-droppingly beautiful medieval walled city, Dubrovnik is known as the Pearl of the Adriatic. Back in the day it rivaled Venice as one of the great maritime powers and it flourished for centuries despite threats and empire-changes that included the Romans, Venetians, Ottomans, and Hungarians.

Most first-time visitors to Croatia will make Dubrovnik a stop on their itinerary; it definitely dazzles! If you want to visit Dubrovnik, I highly suggest you do it first thing in the morning when the crowds are reasonable. It is a different place then, that's for sure.

Fairly empty Stradun - mostly delivery trucks - at 7am

We stumbled across the small outdoor market place. A growling stomach makes Greg a sucker - she kept stuffing dried fruits and nuts into a bag for us.

Buying local snacks from Gundulić Square Market

Melissa Macaya. Her name came to me immediately, somehow, when she came up to us at the cafe along the Stradum. It took Greg a while to catch up with what was happening - going to high school with her was 15 years ago (ok, maybe twice that)! The weird thing is that Greg randomly said, in Rome, he was expecting to run into someone we know.

High school friend Melissa Macaya

After walking around a little bit, and enjoying our coffee, we hiked up Mt. Srd. (You can take a cable car but where is the fun in that.) It is not a difficult hike, takes under an hour, and has the most magnificent views!

The trailhead for Mt. Srd  

There is light tree cover at the start of the trail

Most of the trail is sunny switchbacks 

At the very top of Mt. Srd

I've decided Dubrovnik is most striking from a distance - which means the best activities are walking the wall or going up to Mt. Srd.

After moving our bags to our new apartment within the walls (next to Dubrovnik Cathedral), we headed to Buza Bar - a hidden gem outside the city walls. "Cold drinks with a most beautiful view" is the clue you are looking for when you try to find it - literally a hole through the ancient wall to the seaside cliff. Looking out over the sparkling sea, enjoying cold beers and music, was exactly the shaded downtime we were looking for! If you climb down far enough you can even access the water for a refreshing swim - or take the shortcut, jumping off the cliff, which was exciting to watch.  Note:  There are actually two Buza Bars.  We enjoyed our time spent at both, but maybe preferred this one, commonly referred to as "Buza 2."

Going through the hole in the wall to Buza Bar

View from the bar

Beautiful shaded view, cold drinks, and good music

Cliff jumping from Buza Bar

Next we did something completely out of character and made a spur-of-the-moment decision. We changed our plans to walk the wall and canceled our dinner reservations that we've had for months and opted instead to spend the evening with Melissa and her husband Brian. Their host Pero, interviewed and recommended by Rick Steves on his show, "offered" a private sunset tour to the fort on Mt. Srd followed by a special dinner at a nearby local konoba. I will admit we made memories, but had no reason to pay $50 to return back up to the top of Mt. Srd - especially since guest "Sara from Seattle" arrived late to the meeting point, causing us to miss the sunset. I'll focus on the prize - Pero's fascinating recollection and involvement in the 1991 Croatian War of Independence, which he vividly described to us as we walked through the fort's museum.

Just after sunset from the top of the fort on Mt. Srd

For dinner we went to Konoba Dubrava - a fifteen minute walk from the top of the mountain (we drove). The remote, old restaurant serving traditional food is frequented mostly by locals, and I appreciated experiencing the culture with a Croatian. They served a tub of ice with the red wine - Pero explained that they water down the wine to drink more, and it is how they are raised so that they don't abuse alcohol. (A kid would get a finger's width of wine and dilute it with a glass of water.). We would never have known to order the hot "donuts" (like popovers) served with whipped butter. Our lamb roasted for 3 hours in a peka under the hot coals of the fire - until the meat fell off the bone.

The lamb cooks for over 3 hours in a peka under the fire's coals

Croatian popovers

Pero's secret recipe for dressing the salad

The lamb, so tender it is falling off the bone

Plate of mixed grill

Returning to our apartment, I (actually Sara from Seattle) got my first late-night shush. The concept is completely foreign to me because I'm normally in bed before any societal noise curfew and shushing. But at midnight Sara's voice carried right into the neighbor's room, and understandably they didn't appreciate it one bit. Tonight we were up way too late!

Croatia, the MOST Beautiful Country

View of Dubrovnik, Croatia from the airplane

Upon landing in Dubrovnik, Croatia, the taxi driver corrected our new-found friends (earth travelers Rion and Diane from Livermore), "Not beautiful country - the MOST beautiful country."

The driver also commented how many stairs we had to take to get to the Old Town. Stairs schmairs ... they don't scare me. That is the price you pay for a place with a view.

The stairs from our place down to the Old Town

We are spending our first night above the walls of The Old Town - for its amazing view. "For you it's a nice view but for us it is every day," said our host Iva.

Passing through Ploce Gate, you are immediately transported to another time. It truly is cool.

Ploce Gate is one of several gates into the walled town

Supposedly the Stradun, the main thoroughfare of this city since the 13th century, is where the action is. But there was a constant stream of people no matter which of the town's passageways we wandered down (technically climbed up).

The Stradun - the town's main street

Wandering aimlessly to explore the narrow passages, I had no idea where we were. "Welcome to my world," responded Greg.  I'm pretty sure you can't get lost here, except for maybe Greg.

Off the Stadun, the town is full of alleyways leading up

Locals randomly set up shop around town to sell their wares

Lots of laundry hanging everywhere

Cats own the Old Town

Fort Bokar, outside the main gate (Pile Gate), is the key point of defense from land and sea assaults

Apparently the taxi driver knew what he was talking about. After an hour - if that - of walking around all the steps of the Old Town in the 84 degree plus humidity (mixed with jet-lag), I was done with stairs. "We are never going to make it back up to the apartment." (According to our phone we logged 292 flights of stairs by day's end.)

After enjoying wine and a take-away pizza on our patio-with-a-view, and meandering through town again, bedtime didn't come soon enough.

View from our room

The Stradun at night