Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH)

Today we are leaving Dubrovnik with beautiful pictures, great memories, and very sore calves. It was absolutely a great day to leave. On our way out at only 9am there was a solid stream of tourists on the wall. We passed 6 cruise ships - 4 were very large. Dubrovnik is a major stop on the Mediterranean cruise circuit receiving nearly a million passengers per year; take note of cruise ship schedules and plan accordingly. The cruise season runs from March to November with the bulk of the ships docking from May to October.

Excited to visit a new country for us!

To get out of here, we had a car reservation at the Hertz office in town - quite convenient but the office has horrible reviews (ie. no car when you show up). Luck was with us. We got there just after the 8am opening and had no trouble at all. Come prepared: they charged us a €4000 deposit since we didn't buy their insurance. (For €10/day, the basic insurance would have brought the deposit down to €1500.)

If you don't already know, Greg does not like driving in foreign countries. But he loves me. After about a 1/2 mile, he let out his breath: "So far, going good." The roads are easy to drive.

Greg can adapt and drive crazy just as well as anyone else 

Fun Fact: In the 17th century, Dubrovnik was forced to sell the 12-mile patch of oceanfront to the Ottoman Empire to raise money in order to fight the advancing Venetians.

As a result, Dubrovnik is separated by two international borders from the rest of Croatia. Note: by 2022 Croatia plans to have completed the Peljesac Bridge, a 7,887 ft bridge which will bypass Bosnia completely.

That means within the distance of about 25 miles, we have to cross the border 3 times  At the first border crossing, we had to get in the "all other passports" line like at the airport, but only had to flash the passport at the agent. The short line of cars hardly took 3 minutes. A very short distance later, getting back into Croatia, took twice as long because the Croatian agents actually stamp the passports and run them through the computer.

Between Dubrovnik and Mostar, by Metkovik, the main border crossing into "Bosnia and Herzegovina" ('Bosnia' from here forward) usually has long 45 minute waits. So I researched a lonely crossing up the road - not out of the way. We were the only ones using it.  (N 43*05'43.2" E017*37'05.4" are the coordinates of a restaurant, Konoba Vrilo, near the crossing.)

I read that driving in Bosnia was somewhat of a challenge because google maps doesn't work. I didn't expect our GPS to lead us astray. I knew something was wrong when the sign said to go straight and our GPS directed us right. Whoever designed the maps did not do it in a rental.

No joke - our GPS kept rerouting us to take this road to Kravica Waterfalls

When our GPS failed us we relied on the brown signs to get us to Kravica Waterfalls

Kravica Waterfalls, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Kravica Waterfalls 

Kravica Waterfalls, often also called Kravice Waterfalls, is a natural phenomenon and rarity. Bosnia's large tufa cascade is located on the Trebižat River, in karstic Herzegovina - 25 miles south of Mostar. The falls are about 80 ft high and 500 ft across. Kravica is a popular local swimming and picnic area. The best part about the Kravica Falls is that even though they are impressive and make for a great swimming area, they don't get the crowds like Croatia's Plitvice National Park and Krka National Park.

Something to note is that the internet cannot keep up with how quickly costs are rising here and in Croatia. For example, the ticket price here has already risen from 4 km to 10 km (add in cheap parking, all paid at the entrance booth), in the past 6 months since I did my research. We paid €12 ... since Bosnia takes euros and we are only here for less than 24 hours, we are not buying Konvertibilna Markas - "km" or "marks" for short.

Without hesitation we knew we were crossing to the other side, the peaceful riverbank - by walking through the river as deep as our chests. I should've videoed Greg because he lost his balance and got a response from the crowd. "I thought I was going in."

Wading through the river to get to the better side for relaxing along the shore

Beautiful combination of tufa and cascades

The falls make people so happy that they break out into song and dance, accompanied by the accordian they conveniently have on hand. It is an interesting culture. To Greg it sounds like Bavaria. I read that there is "nothing to do here but swim, drink, and sunbathe" - but I'd add that the live music makes it an experience to be had. It is a good place to transport yourself to for a day!

Bring your accordian and you'll attract friendly, singin' Bosnian babes

Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Known for the emerald green River Neretva and the iconic Stari Most, Mostar is one of the most picturesque UNESCO-listed old towns in the world. It's beautiful: it's where east meets west, where the European Union meets the old Ottoman Empire, where church bells ring together with the minaret's call to prayer - where Christianity meets Islam. Muslim culture permeates Mostar: minarets belonging to the 10 mosques pierce the horizon and 5 times each day, loud speakers crackle to life with the call to prayer.

Stari Most

Stari Most ("Old Bridge") is a reconstruction of a 16th-century Ottoman bridge over the emerald-green Neretva River. Commissioned in 1557 by the Ottoman sultan, the gravity defying stone bridge was a technological marvel for its time – stretching nearly 100 feet, it was the longest single-span stone arch on the planet (built before the Rialto Bridge in Venice) – and strong enough to withhold the Nazi tanks of WWII. Destroyed in the 1990s conflict, the Old Bridge was rebuilt in 2004.

Mostar's Stari Most

Walking on the bridge - it is steep and slick

Beneath the Stari Most on the shores of the Neretva River

Jumping off the bridge into the icy water 80 feet below is a very old tradition – one for only the most trained and skilled divers. To watch, you will be highly encouraged by fellow divers to make a donation.

After they collect enough money, they will make the jump

Skilled divers jump 80 feet into the water below

Next to the bridge, Coppersmiths' Street offers the flavor of a Turkish bazaar this side of Istanbul - selling colorful mosaic lanterns, rugs, Persian-style painted ceramics, metal platters, coffee sets, belly dancing dresses and plenty of other touristy souvenirs.

It is fun to look around Coppersmith's Street - not your typical souvenirs

Through '93 and '94, Bosniaks dared going outside only at night, under the cloak of darkness, when Croat snipers couldn't see them.

A simple sign reminding to never forget the horrors of the Bosnian War

Bosnia is the home of ćevap — perfectly seasoned minced meat formed into little links, then grilled on an open fire. There are plenty of restaurants in Mostar that serve them, but we chose Hindin Han for its quaint stream-side balcony.

There was supposed to be 10 little sausages hiding under my pita, but they kept disappearing into Greg's mouth. Greg's dinner was delicious too - a breaded and fried veal steak rolled around cheese, prosciutto, and sour cream.

Delicious ćevapćići are hiding under the pita, next to Greg's plate of fried veal

Dinner at Hindin Han was the deal of the century: two meals including overflowing glasses of wine and tip for only $18. In Dubrovnik, that hardly covered the cost of drinks.

We thoroughly enjoyed venturing out of Croatia for a brief stop in this town!