Saturday, September 22, 2018

Woo-Hoo Look at Me Go - Around Korcula Island

I'll be honest - I am disappointed. I was trying to keep our plans open for today, to try a bit of "spontaneity." (What the heck is that?!) Of course I secretly had an idea of how to spend our day on Korcula: scootering around the island sounded footloose and fancy-free. So when the rental lady said we needed a motorcycle license, I was bummed. When she added, "It is not safe, you will get hurt," I knew she was doing me a favor. She was saving my life. The drivers here are generally crazy, with little regard for their own lane, and the roads are windy and narrow. Renting a scooter was not a good idea.

Instead we rented electric bikes. We've never ridden them before, and actually kinda laughed at them - aren't they for woosies? Oh my gosh, no - we had THE best time! I felt like I had super powers on the electric bike! We zoomed up hills with ease. It was so fun and so easy to see so much.

Riding electric bikes was a blast!

I think I've finally figured it out - I am addicted to adrenaline. The best activities, particularly while traveling, are the ones that get my heart pumping.

We rode to Račišće AND Lombarda - which never would have been an option without pedal power. For the record, I want to point out that we still got a great workout. We pumped hard for over 3 hours to see as much as we could.


First we headed west along the coastline 12km to

Račišće. 

 Just keep turning right at every fork in the road.  

The winding roads stay close to the sea and offer fantastic views. 

We took the hills with ease, swiftly passing those unfortunate people who actually had to pedal hard. Even though it was not yet noon, the wind hit us on the way back - yet another reason to rent an electric bike (or steer away from kayaks).

"Woo-hoo look at me go!" - I felt like I had super powers on the electric bike

The peacefully quaint town of Račišće

In hindsight I would have made a day, or at least our entire 4-hour rental, out of this route. Every turn was so pretty and the destination was a secluded, beautiful beach.

Vaja Bay, Račišće's secluded beach, is up the steep hill just passed town, and then down the gravel path.


But instead of spending our morning enjoying this area, we backtracked to Lombarda. It's what everyone does when they come - it is what Korcula is known for - their wine region. We would've taken a bike tour to Lombarda but it doesn't operate on Saturdays. Thankfully. The ride through Lombarda was a huge disappointment. It is along the main road with cars. It is hot. And there is nothing to see. Don't do it.

If you like wine, you will come to Lombarda to wine taste at Bire and Grk wineries

If anyone tells you the Lombarda route is "flat", do not believe them - obviously they have never ridden a bike around here.  We passed a lady from Chicago who was miserable. They had tried some short cut, and she had taken a tumble. Her arm was all scratched and bruised.

Map of our bike route - we went to Račišće and Lombarda.  You need a real motorized vehicle to get to the most beautiful beach: Pupnatska Luka (which we didn't do).


You can rent a bike from several places in town but we chose Kaleta travel agency - right across from the main entrance to the Old Town. I especially recommend them because they graciously reimbursed us 2/3rds of Greg's rental fee because his motor didn't work in every gear and at high speeds.

The rental agency is on the main road across from the main entrance to the Old Town

For this gorgeous view over the town, you need to get to Ul.45 (a road).  There is a bench that gives away the scenic overlook. 

"Life is easy here," we heard a local explain to some FOBs.

Enjoying the apartment's private beach access

For dinner we chose Pizzeria Tedeschi along the seawall because you can hear the live singer from the more expensive outdoor restaurant next door.

In Croatia they like sour cream on their pizza

In hindsight, the only regret of our trip was not making it to dinner at Konoba Belin, a 15-minute drive out of the Old Town.  Our benevolent host offered to take us.  We tried to take him up on it but he didn't get our two texts until we were leaving the next morning.  We enjoyed our evening and didn't realize what we were missing - until leaving Croatia.  At the airport, Stephanie from Brisbane described it as her trip's highlight.  It is more than a meal - touring the property, making macaroni, and dining is an experience.

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