"Greg, wake up," I said, elbowing him. He was talking gibberish about buying a tiny island.
I'm just kidding, he wasn't sleeping. It's not possible. Coincidentally, unlike the cheaper Krilo ferry, the enclosed and slower Jadrolinija ferries are a great way to travel with small children. They can run around the aisles or watch - of all things - the Smurf's. Headphones with the volume all the way up drown out most of the playground noise. I fit right in, singing along to my favorite Moana songs. It made arriving 35 minutes late all the better. Enjoy the 3 1/2 hour (4-hour) ride!
Passing up a stop at popular Hvar Island was a good idea, at least for us. Some of the things we enjoy most about our visits to Europe are illegal here. There is a €400 fine for eating or napping in the town square, and a €700 fine for drinking.
Brief ferry stop at Hvar Island
The port of Bol on the island of Brac was more charming. It's best known for its white-pebble beach Zlatni Rat.
Brief ferry stop at Brac Island
Finally in Split, we splurged on a private tour with Peter (Petvar or Pero). It was worth it to gain a deeper understanding and appreciation while exploring the Old Town's narrow alleys, walking around Diocletian's Palace, and taking in the history.
Ferries, trains, and buses all arrive together in Split
Diocletian's Palace contains some of the most impressive Roman architecture to be found on the Adriatic coast. Its highlights include the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world, 3500 year-old Egyptian sphinxes, and vestiges of Roman, Venetian, and medieval architecture. The Roman emperor Diocletioan built it as his retirement palace in the 4th century, and the city grew around the palace. Nowadays, the palace has morphed into the "downtown" of Split. Although it has several official "gates", you can freely meander throughout the palace walls.
Capers grip the palace walls
People live within the palace but it is mostly airbnb, joked our guide
Within the palace walls, there are a few places you pay to enter. Peter took us to the Cathedral of St. Domnius, the treasury, and the baptistery (we will climb the bell tower on our own tomorrow). I was happy he also took us to the well-preserved underground halls of the palace.
The underground beneath the palace is so well-preserved because inhabitants filled it with trash - and because Cersei kept her dragons there
It is not every day you stand in the oldest cathedral in the world - St. Domnius
The costumed a cappella "klapa" singers hanging out in the acoustic Vestibule will start singing when a tour group comes in.
Klapa singers - Google them; they are fabulous!
The Riva is Split's promenade and the place to be. Its successful design is inviting and comfortable.
Stroll the Riva, and leave time for sitting to enjoy the ambiance
Peter ended the tour in front of St. Francis Church at the end of the Riva so we could walk to the best view in town.
Peter comes highly recommended and can be reserved at this site:
https://www.private-guides-split.com/tours/
The view from the lookout point next to Vidilica Cafe in Marjan Park is stunning in the late afternoon, when the sun is shining warmly on the town.
The best view over Split
He was determined to get in my picture
For a traditional dinner, we had reservations at Trattoria Bajamont. The atmosphere was fantastic - eating in a narrow alley inside an ancient Roman palace.
Trattoria Bajamont
Greg ruled his stuffed calamari and fresh black pasta the best dinner of the trip. I had gnocchi with truffles, and agree with him.
Delicious stuffed calamari (in back) and gnocchi with truffles
We ended the evening relaxing with wine in Peristil Square. Live music from Luxor began at 8:30pm.
Diocletian Palace's Peristil Square
Our apartment was hardly 15 meters from the square so we had an easy walk home.
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